Boty nebo kalhoty – vývoj středověkého kalhotového oděvu v českých zemích

Variant title
Shoes or trousers – the development of medieval trouser garments in the Czech lands
Author: Šimša, Martin
Source document: Šimša, Martin. Ikonografické prameny ke studiu tradiční kultury. 1. vyd. Brno: Masarykova univerzita, 2011, pp. 32-59
The study deals with the genesis, development of cut, and spread of medieval male trousers – hose. It studies the topic on the basis of analysis of domestic Latin and Czech texts: mainly chronicles, Czech translation of the Bible and, in this context, also the Latin-Czech dictionary production, in which several expressions appear: bracae and femoralie, hácě and, starting in the 14th century, caligae. On the basis of iconographic sources we can follow the final stage of the formation of late-medieval closed trousers which in the 15th century and at the beginning of the 16th century prevailed on European fashion scene. Even after having been replaced by other types of trousers in fashion, they did not disappear completely and were used by rural inhabitants in various parts of Europe at least up to the end of the 16th century. The details captured in the depictions allow us not only to describe the development, but also to reconstruct the cut, which forms a suitable means for comparative studies. Due to the studies we know that this type of trousers also appeared in Hungary, where they became a part of the national aristocratic clothing apparel in the course of the 16th century, consequently remaining in use up to the mid-18th century.
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